One of the most peculiar geological formations in Maramureș County, formed millions of years ago due to volcanic activity in the Gutâi Mountains. The sharp andesite rocks reach heights ranging from 60 to 100 meters, and the formation stretches for about 200 meters. The name comes from the fact that, when viewed from a certain angle, it resembles a rooster’s crest.
Trails: Cock’s Ridge can be relatively easily reached from Gutâi Pass (DN 18) or from the area of Șuior Mine. Another, more challenging, option is from the village of Breb, for those who would like to admire also the Morărenilor Pond, a renowned wetland reserve known for the green moss formed around the lake.
The Maramureș Region
North-West
Located just below the Cocks’Ridge, at an altitude of 1053 meters, are two small bodies of water, remnants of a former periglacial lake that, through infilling and marshification, has transformed into a tarn, called Chendroaiei Ponds or the Ponds beneath Gutâi. The marshy area of the tarn is bumpy, in the form of a dome about 4 meters high, mainly formed by arctic moss, blueberry bushes, cranberries, and dwarf birch, and covers an area of about 2.5 hectares. The two water bodies in the center of the tarn are about 5 by 10 meters and 5 by 15 meters, respectively. Here grows also a rare species of carnivorous plant, specific to the northern flora, called Round-leaved Sundew (Drosera rotundifolia).
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It is the first greenway route in the northern part of the country, to be noted – it is not accessible by car, only by cart, bicycle, or on foot.
The Greenway connects 7 protected areas and 7 villages: Cocoșul Ridge Reserve, Crăiasca Forest, Morărenilor Lake, Hoteni Ponds, Iezerul Mare Peat Bog, Tătarului Gorge; Poiana Brazilor Marshes.
The 7 villages are representative of Maramureș culture: Ocna Șugatag, Budești, Breb, Hoteni, Hărnicești, Desești and Mara.
Mara – Ocna Şugatag
Downstream of Cheile Tătarului, in the Runcu valley, a stone “barrier” over 90 meters high is being erected, intended to collect the waters of the river in a lake. The reservoir should have spread over 91 hectares and contained a volume of 26 million cubic meters. Construction began more than 30 years ago, in 1987, but was never completed. According to the project, the construction should have been completed in 2023.
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The Tătarului gorges stretch over a length of 700 meters in the Gutâi Mountains and are the only andesite gorges in the country. The high cliffs give a wild and remarkably picturesque aspect to the area, yet the gorges are quite little known as a tourist attraction. The Runcu stream flows through the gorges. On the same stream, a reservoir with a rockfill dam is under construction. The completion of this dam could lead to the inundation of the gorge area.
There are two access routes:
• From the tourist resort Izvoare, follow the forest road northwards which leads towards Pleșca Cabin and towards Dumitru’s Glade.
• From the village of Mara, follow the road towards Runcu Dam.
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Or Iezerul Mare Marsh is a protected area located within the administrative territory of Desești commune, in the northwestern part of the Igniș Mountains at an altitude of 1,014 meters. The protected area represents a wetland, a spring drained by the streams Valea Zăvoare and Valea Cheii, surrounded by oligotrophic bogs, which harbors a diverse vegetation specific to peat bogs.
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Located beneath the Cocoșul Ridge, Desești is the second village at the entrance to Maramureș County, on National Road DN18 linking Baia Mare to Sighetu Marmației. The place is abundant in tourist attractions, traditions, and craftsmen, being one of the villages that have become true symbols of Historical Maramureș. Here take place the famous “Nichita Stănescu” Poetry Evenings at Desești – during September-October. The wooden church in Desești dates back to 1770, restored by Vasile Pop Taina (1996-98), and is included on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Personalities: Vasile Pop Taina, well-known builder and restorer of wooden churches; biologist Maria Pop, who revitalized the art of vegetable dyeing and owns an impressive collection of hand-dyed old carpets; Gheorghe Pârja and Viorica Pârja, writers and journalists, members of the Writers’ Union of Romania.
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UNESCO heritage
The wooden church in Desești, dedicated to “Saint Paraskeva,” is one of the “characteristic monuments of 18th-century Maramureș” and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was dated to the mid-18th century, with the wall ensemble and iconostasis dated to 1780, evidently created after the construction of the church. The interior painting of the church has been well preserved, covering all the walls of the three rooms, representing a typical example of 18th-century post-Byzantine painting specific to Maramureș. The church was restored between 1996 and 1998 by Vasile Pop Taina, a renowned builder and church restorer, a prominent figure in the region.
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In the southwestern part of the village of Breb lies an almost circular lake, known locally as Lake Brebu, near the national road DN18. Morărenilor Lake covers an area of 0.45 hectares and has a maximum depth of 20 meters. It was formed by a land slide but is fed by a stream and underground springs. It was declared a natural reserve of floristic, faunistic, and landscape type in 1977.
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UNESCO heritage
The wooden church in Budești Josani, dedicated to Saint Nicholas, is built on a small hill, dominating the central area of the village. It is considered a “magnificent” construction for its time and long after. It has a rectangular plan, with a polygonal, recessed apse. The popular murals are dated from 1762. The church is included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Inside, it preserves the helmet and part of the chainmail armor of Pintea Viteazul, a legendary outlaw of Maramureș, who is said to have left his chainmail shirt and helmet to the church himself, after the battle against the Tatars in 1717.
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The wooden church in Budești Josani, dedicated to Saint Nicholas, is built on a small hill, dominating the central area of the village. It is considered a “magnificent” construction for its time and long after. The popular murals are dated from 1762. The church is included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The wooden church in Budești Josani houses in the narthex, under glass, part of the chainmail armor of Pintea Viteazul, the famous outlaw of Maramureș, a legendary outfit of a legendary figure. It is said that he himself left his chainmail shirt and helmet to the church after the battle against the Tatars in 1717.
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Also known as “Floating Planks,” they form a protected area on the Cosău Valley, covering 15 hectares. They consist of an oligotrophic swamp and several eutrophic lakes, interconnected by channels. The peat bog that forms the swampy ground of one of the rafts has a thickness of 2.5 meters and floats on a lake with a depth of 4 meters. To cross, a passage with wooden pontoons fixed directly on the swampy surface was built, preventing sinking. They can be reached from Breb, Hărnicești, or Ocna Șugatag.
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Top 20 @ National Geographic
It is among the most picturesque villages in Maramureș, renowned for its traditional wooden architecture. In 2015, National Geographic Traveler recommended Breb and Maramureș in the Top 20 must-visit destinations in the world. It became famous worldwide after Prince Charles of Great Britain visited the village in 2004.
The Church of the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel in the village of Breb dates back to 1622, and the tower still preserves elements from the old church, being the oldest wooden tower in Romania (1531).
Trails: Cocks Ridge, Morărenilor Lake, Rafts of Hoteni, Iezerul Mare Peat Bog, Tătarului Gorges.
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The Church of the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel in the village of Breb dates back to 1622, brought from a neighboring village, Copăciș, which has since disappeared. The tower still preserves elements from the old church, being the oldest wooden tower in Romania, dating back to 1531. The mural painting inside, one of the oldest preserved in wooden churches in the country, is partially visible and dates back to 1626. The church also includes a valuable collection of 17th, 18th, and 19th-century icons and a cemetery with stone, wood, and iron crosses from different periods.
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If you stop by Breb village, be sure to visit the workshop of the folk craftsman Ioan Petric, to see the exhibition of traditional sculpture and wooden works. Maramureș gates, wayside crosses, and other such authentic treasures passed down from ancestors are found at every step in Breb and Maramureș. And around the world. Visit Ioan Petric’s Facebook page or, better yet, stop by Breb and enjoy his hospitality and stories. Contact / Phone: 0758735023
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Due to its chloride-sodium mineral springs and salt lakes formed by the collapse of old salt mines, the Ocna Șugatag spa resort is a well-known year-round tourist area where curative treatments are offered. It offers developed recreational activities, set in a natural landscape of excellent scenic beauty, 20 km from Sighetu Marmației and 53 km from Baia Mare.
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The lake complex at Ocna Șugatag includes 8 lakes from collapsed salt mines, over 30 small lakes located in dissolution sinkholes (Mihai, Vorsig, Pipiriga, Lacul Alb, etc.), but there are also underground lakes in abandoned salt mines. Găvrilă Lake is the largest mine lake (anthroposaline) in Romania. It was formed in 1966, by the collapse of the mine. It covers an area of ~2.5 hectares, and the depth varies between 10 and 30 meters. The surface water is fresh, providing a suitable habitat for birds, amphibians, and fish species. The lake is an attraction and a relaxation oasis for tourists.
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Old Lake in Ocna Șugatag is the only developed lake in the area for recreation, covering an area of 0.51 hectares and a maximum depth of 13.8 meters, with a maximum surface temperature of 29°C during the summer season. The adjacent pool within the complex is fed from the lake at a depth of 3.5 meters, and the temperature varies between 20-26°C. It is a suitable area for swimming, with children’s playgrounds, water attractions, diving towers, and terraces. It also has camping areas, changing rooms, and showers.
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The museum in Gheorghe Opriş’s courtyard, from Sârbi village, built from scratch with his own hands, is unique worldwide. The peasant installations – the whirlpool, the pestle, the bat, the mill, and the distillery – ingeniously use wood and water to meet various daily life needs within the village and are powered by the waters of the Cosău River. All built by Gheorghe Opriş, a folk master, bard, and symbol of historic Maramureș (1942-2020).
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The traditional house originally belonged to the Greek-Catholic protopope Vasile Mihalyi and was built in 1826. On the back of the lintel, carved in wood, is another inscription: “descendant Lazăr,” indicating the two families were related. In this house, on November 28, 1918, Dr. Ilie Lazăr convened the Maramureș delegates to leave for Alba Iulia, where on December 1, 1918, the Union of Maramureș with the Mother Country would be signed for eternity. For more details, visit the Maramureș Museum website.
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The oldest wayside cross in Maramureș County is the “Rednic Family Cross” from the village of Berbești. It is a wooden sculpture depicting the crucifixion of Jesus, as well as other biblical figures. It seems that the monument was erected centuries ago by the Rednic family, with noble descent from the medieval period of historic Maramureș.
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The old name of the locality was Valea Porcului (Pig Valley). Since 1964, by decree, the name Valea Porcului was changed to Valea Stejarului (Oak Valley). The first written document, considered the birth certificate of the village, dates back to 1326, confirming that the nobleman Lupu would receive ownership of the Valea Porcului village.
“Access to the village is difficult. In certain sections, the road overlapped with the valley’s riverbed. About 40 years ago, when I visited this isolated village, not far from the town, I asked the mayor why they didn’t make a proper access road. He told me -I’ll tell you honestly. That’s how the old folks kept it, so that the gentlemen couldn’t visit us too easily. And we keep this tradition because it’s not bad.” They had learned long ago from Teacher Michnea that the best-organized country is the one without a king, called a Republic. After the Union of 1918, rumors circulated for a long time about the villagers’ deed from Valea Porcului: they declared themselves the Autonomous Republic „Valea Porcului”. „We ask nothing from anyone and do not want to give anything to anyone”, they concluded in a protocol kept by Priest Iuliu Ardelean, and they became an autonomous republic for a while. – Autonomous Republic „Valea Porcului”, author: Teofil Ivanciuc: Source
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Located near Sighetu Marmației, Tepliţa Lake is an artificial lake formed by excavation, covering an area of 4.4 hectares, near the Tisa River. In the past, the recreational lake was equipped with boats, a restaurant on an island, ferries, and bridges connecting the mainland to the islands. Unfortunately, it was left to decay… there might be a reason! The lake’s waters never freeze, with “Tepliţe” meaning thermal water in Slavic. But there could be another cause, as the lake’s waters are said to be slightly irradiated, which is why they register high temperatures even in winter. This wouldn’t be a surprise, considering that upstream on the Tisa River, uranium deposits were discovered and exploited!
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Sighetul Marmației is documented since 1326, being elevated to the rank of a city in 1352. Until 1919, Sighet was the seat of Maramureș County, as well as during the interwar period. It is the second-largest urban center in size and importance in the county after the county seat, Baia Mare. The city’s official website mentions that the origin of the city’s name is the Thracian-Dacian word “zeget,” meaning fortress.
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The Civic Academy Foundation took over the ruins of the former prison in Sighet in 1994, with the aim of transforming it into a Memorial. The rehabilitation works of the building lasted until 2000. Each cell was transformed into a museum room. Objects, photographs, and documents were placed, creating the atmosphere and documentation of a museum hall.
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It was inaugurated on May 30, 1981, on the occasion of the International Museum Day. Professor and historian Mihai Dăncuș (1942-2020), former director of the Maramureș Museum, made a major contribution to its establishment. The village museum includes over 30 preserved households, some fully furnished with original pieces, grouped according to the main subzones of historical Maramureș. In addition to Romanian households, a Ukrainian house, a Hungarian one, and two Jewish houses (one of which has a village synagogue) have been reconstructed.
Open hours: Mon-Sun: 10-18.
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The first epitaph dates back to 1935, and since the 1960s, the entire cemetery has been populated with about 700 such wooden crosses, most of them sculpted by the great folk artist Stan Ioan Pătraș, becoming an open-air museum of unique nature and a famous attraction worldwide. The Merry Cemetery became part of the UNESCO cultural heritage, and at the Funerary Monuments Symposium held in the United States in 1998, it was ranked first in Europe and second in the world after the one in the Valley of the Kings, Egypt.
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Stan Ioan Pătraș, the great folk artist of Maramureș, was born in 1908 into a peasant family in Săpânța. In 1935, then an anonymous woodcarver, he began to place short poems written in the first person on crosses: ironic, naive epitaphs, often with grammatical errors and very close to the archaic language. Initially, he carved about 10 crosses per year, using oak wood. Ioan Stan Pătraș attended only the first four grades of school, so the famous epitaphs were transcribed on the cross mimetically: another villager dictated his verses, typed them on a typewriter, and then the master imitated the writing by carving the text in the reserved place on the cross. Since 1936, he perfected his style, and carved figures in relief appeared on crosses, in bright colors obtained from natural pigments. The predominant color is blue, now called “Săpânța blue” by experts. The other colors have established symbolism: green – life, yellow – fecundity and fertility, red – passion, black – death. Until 1977, Pătraș made approximately 700 crosses in both cemeteries in Săpânța, known as the “Merry Cemetery“. The “Ioan Stan Pătraș Memorial House”, dating back to 1951, belonged to the master’s wife and is located just a few hundred meters from the “Merry Cemetery”. Inside, dozens of bas-relief sculptures, painted, specific to the artist’s creation, are exhibited. In the yard, his workshop is preserved, where his descendants continue his craft.
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Dumitru Pop Tincu continued Stan Ioan Pătraş‘s work from 1977 when, at just 9 years old, he entered his apprenticeship, and at the master’s death, he was 14 years old. For half a century, he has been carving, painting, and writing epitaphs on the crosses so appreciated worldwide, fulfilling his teacher’s words, Stan Pătraș: “Here, you must be a sculptor, painter, and poet!”. Dumitru Pop was also the custodian of the “Stan Ioan Pătraș Memorial House” until his death in 2022. On September 6, 2021, he was honored with the title of Living Human Treasure! Today, in the Merry Cemetery, there are over 1,200 crosses, almost half of which have been made by Dumitru Pop Tincu for over 40 years.
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Established during the time of the Dragosesti voivodes, the grandsons of Dragoș Vodă, Balc and then Drag, donated lands and goods to the monastery, so in 1391, a stone church was built. Here operated an important calligraphy school, where for the first time in Romanian, the “Psalter”, the “Gospel”, and the “Acts of the Apostles” were translated and copied. Time’s seal led to the destruction of the monastery in 1783. The Săpânța Peri Monastery was established in 1997, in the border of the Săpânța village, with the desire to reconnect with the historical tradition of the old St. Archangel Michael Monastery, in Peri, Maramureș, today on Ukrainian territory. It is located in a dendrological park, surrounded by a secular forest. The church, set on a stone pedestal, is built of solid oak wood. The impressive tower, almost 78 m high, transforms the building into one of the tallest wooden churches in the world.
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The church within the Săpânța-Peri monastery is considered the tallest wooden church in Europe, measuring 78 meters in height. Built of oak wood on a stone pedestal, the tower is no less than 75 meters high, and the cross at the top measures 7 meters, using approximately 4 kilograms of gold leaf for its realization. Construction on the place of worship began in 1997 and was completed in 2003, using about 400 cubic meters of oak wood. Alongside the Merry Cemetery, it is the pride of the locals in Săpânța. Until then, the wooden church in Șurdești, a UNESCO heritage site, was considered the tallest wooden construction in Europe, with a height of 72 meters, being recorded in the Guinness Book. But, erected out of ambition, the church in Săpânța-Peri surpassed it with its 75 meters in height.
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Săpânța Rock is a natural tourist attraction located on the Săpânța River, which originates from under the Rotundu peak (1500 m). It is a considerable volcanic formation located at an altitude of 914 meters.
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Săpânța Waterfall, located near the village of Săpânța, is a tourist attraction for nature lovers. It can be visited either individually or as a stopover on an itinerary to Piatra Săpânței, a renowned rocky formation in the Maramureș region of NW. Also, on the route, there is the renowned “borcut” from Săpânța, an iron-rich spring enriched with many minerals, which emerges directly from the ground. Nearby guesthouses organize, upon request, hikes to Săpânța Waterfall, the famous “borcut,” or Piatra Săpânței. For more details: Youtube.
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Huta Pass, located at an altitude of 587 meters, is a pass in northern Romania that connects Maramureș and Satu Mare counties, more precisely the localities of Negrești-Oaș and Sighetu Marmației along National Road 19. Huta Pass represents the geographical and folkloric boundary between Oaș Country and Maramureș Country. Here takes place the “Sheep Shade,” an old pastoral celebration, which repeats year after year on the second Sunday of May.
Tourist attractions: Șipot Waterfall, located nearby; Merry Cemetery of Săpânța; Bixad Monastery; Certeze Village; Oaș Country Museum.