Baia Sprie
Chioar region
It is a historical region located in the counties of Maramureș and Cluj. The first documentary mention of its name, as Castrum Kewar – the Latinized form of the Hungarian name Kővár “Stone Fortress,” dates back to 1367.
Nicknamed “The Lion of Şişeşti” due to his fight for the rights of Romanians in Transylvania, Father Vasile Lucaciu was declared a Hero of the Romanian Nation on 8.03.2022. He contributed to the drafting of the Memorandum, presented at the Court of Vienna on May 28, 1892, which requested equal ethnic rights for the Romanian population as for the Hungarian population, as well as the cessation of persecutions and attempts at Magyarization, for which he was sentenced to 5 years in prison, along with other signatories of the document. Vasile Lucaciu and his family lived in Şişeşti for almost 30 years. The Memorial Ensemble “Dr. Vasile Lucaciu” consists of: the parish house (18th century), the school (1905), the Church of the Holy Union of All Romanians (1890), with the tomb of Vasile Lucaciu, the Spring of the Romanian Mother at Sisești, the stone columns for the statues of Trajan and Decebal, the altar of the old wooden church, and the Lucaciu family library.
Negreia is populated by the sculptures of the master Gavrilă Cusco, who became an artist because he discovered the voice of the stones, which, under his hand, become works of art. He carves portraits of Jesus and the Virgin Mary into the stones he finds on the hills or in the valleys of the forest. Each work has been blessed by a priest. The name of the village Negreia comes from the fact that the inhabitants, engaged in charcoal making, had blackened faces, hence they were called “the black people”. Location: 17 km from Baia Mare. After entering from the main road from Șișești to Negreia, the stone sculptures appear about 3-4 km away, on the left side of the road, before entering the village.
Dăneşti village is known for the healing properties of its sulfuric waters, which play a special role in people’s health. The cold mountain sulfuric waters can be used in the treatment of conditions such as gynecological diseases, respiratory system diseases, and treatments of the peripheral nervous system. Here is a well-known balneotherapy complex, where sulfur baths can be taken, for which the locality has become famous.
About 2 km along the Izvorul Bulzului Valley (on Gmaps Chechiş) from the Dăneşti Gorges, well hidden in the thick of the forest from curious and uninitiated eyes, there is a phallic megalith with a base of 3 meters and a height of 8 meters. Some call it the Phallus of Dăneşti, others, especially the locals, call things by their names: Horse’s Di#k (P..la Calului)! The trail is not marked, but during the visit, I noted the GPS coordinates: 47.62493, 23.762891
With a height of 72 meters, the church is considered the tallest historical wooden church in the world. The bell tower, impressive in height, rises 54 meters towards the sky – three times the length of the church. In the churchyard, there are several stone tombs in the Romanesque style, shaped like sarcophagus.
The wooden church of Plopiș was built by the Greek-Catholic community of the village between 1796-1798, on the Cavnic Valley, on the opposite bank of the valley being the village of Șurdești. With dimensions of 17 meters in length, 7 meters in width, and 47 meters in height, the church of Plopiș stands out for its balanced proportions, being one of the most imposing wooden religious buildings in Maramureș. The village of Plopiș is first mentioned in documents in 1583, as one of the localities in the urbarium of Chioar Fortress. Iustinian Chira was born on 28.05.1921 in Plopiș. In 1941 he was tonsured into monasticism at the Rohia Monastery, under the name Iustinian. He became the abbot of that monastery (1944 – 1973). In 1980, Justinian Chira took under his wing Nicolae Steinhardt, at the Rohia Monastery, after several monastic settlements refused him, he being pursued by the Securitate even after his release from prison. On 9.05.2021, the Justinian Chira Memorial House was inaugurated in the village of Plopiș. In front of it, a bust depicting the hierarch was placed, a work by the sculptor Ioan Marchiș.
The current name of the village appears in documents in 1776, in the Hungarianized form of Czetetzel. The first church, dedicated to “Saint Paraskeva,” was built here in the mid-17th century and was made of oak wood, in the specific style of Maramureș. The church was sold to the village of Rogoz, and from there it was taken to the village of Izvoarele (Bloaja), where it is located today. The current Stone Church in Cetățele dates back to 1794, as indicated by the inscription at the entrance, and is included on the list of historical monument churches. The body of the church is made of rough stone, while the tower is made of wood. The walls are thick, reaching a dimension of 90 cm, and the roof is covered with shingles. Next to the church is the “Ancestors’ Table,” dating back to the 18th century, made of six heavy stone slabs, possibly the altar of the former church. Each family that had a place at this table was identified by the inscription carved into the corresponding slab.
Teleki Castle in Pribilești was used as a summer residence for the noble Teleki family. It was built in the 19th century on a domain spanning 6.7 hectares, of which the building occupied 589 square meters, and an annex of 296 square meters. Until the end of World War II, the castle remained under the administration of Count Teleki Pál (1879-1941) and his descendants, who, at the end of World War II, would abandon their properties and leave the country. In 1949, the property was nationalized by the communists, and after the Revolution, because it was not claimed by descendants until 2006, it passed into the ownership of the Satulung commune, to which the village of Pribilești belongs. It was immediately sold at auction to a British descendant of the Teleki family, but the castle was left to deteriorate over time, in a continuous state of decay. In 2021, Maramureș County Council purchased the property, and rehabilitation works were initiated.
Pál Teleki, Count of Szék (1879-1941), was a member of the Hungarian Academy of Sciences, and as a politician, he served as Prime Minister of Hungary between 1920 and 1921 and between 1939 and 1941. On December 12, 1940, he signed the friendship treaty with Yugoslavia in Belgrade. Since on April 2, 1941, Admiral Miklós Horthy allowed German troops to pass through Hungary to Yugoslavia, Teleki considered this act a breach of his word and committed suicide the next day.
The castle in Satulung was built between 1740 and 1780 by Teleki Mihály, of the noble Teleki family, and the current form was created in 1891 under the patronage of Teleki László Gyula, the largest landowner in the area at the beginning of the 20th century. Here he had a library of 4,000 volumes. In 1897, the castle was expanded and modernized in the Baroque style. In the period 1997-1999, the state invested approximately 1.7 billion lei in the partial renovation of the building erected by General Samuel Teleki on the ruins of an old Tatar construction. On the former estate of the Teleki counts, there is also a dendrological park, with trees of inestimable value and over 300 years old.
The Teleki Castle in Coltău was built between 1740-1780, initially it had a simple shape, a kind of fortress-castle, with a large garden, from which a few centuries-old trees remain today. Count Teleki Sándor, obtained the castle from his parents, at the age of 25, in 1845 and it was used occasionally, for receiving guests or for hunting. The great Hungarian poet Petőfi Sándor spent his honeymoon in September 1847 with his young wife, where he wrote the most beautiful love poems. Currently, Teleki Castle has been placed on the list of historical monuments, it was renovated and reopened its doors in 2020, both for visitors and for lovers of the romantic life and poetry of the great Hungarian poet, with the Memorial Museum inaugurated in its premises. Petöfi Sándor”. The rooms of the castle are arranged according to specific themes, such as: the history of the Teleki family and castle, the visits of the poet Petofi Sandor to Coltău, representative ethnography of the commune, etc. The attic of the building is a multifunctional space dedicated to events but also hosts a painting exhibition of the Baia Mare Landscape Colony.
Teleki Castle in Coltău, dating from the mid-18th century, includes a documentary exhibition dedicated to the Hungarian romantic poet Petöfi Sándor (1823 – 1849). The museum was organized in the 1950s to celebrate the poet’s friendship with Count Teleki Sándor, as well as the happy days after Petöfi’s marriage to Szendrey Julia. The two spent their honeymoon here, with a strong echo in the work of the great poet, during which he wrote 28 love poems. Petöfi Sándor and Szendrey Julia were married on September 8, 1847, in the Ardud Citadel (or Károlyi Castle). At present, on the tower of Károlyi Castle, a plaque commemorates “the place where the destinies of the poet Petőfi Sándor and Szendrey Júlia were united.”
Located just 12 kilometers from Baia Mare, the wooden church dedicated to the “Dormition of the Mother of God” in Săcălășeni, tradition dates back to 1442 and was rebuilt in the 17th century, near the banks of the Lăpuș River. Of monumental proportions, with a very tall bell tower, it is impressive also due to the exceptionally thick logs from which it is built. Access is made on the south side, the door having a bracket-shaped frame and rich carved ornamentation. Inside, there are mural paintings from 1865, as specified by the inscription in the nave. Gallery
The wooden and stone church, dated 1735, dedicated to the “Dormition of the Mother of God,” in the village of Copalnic, is a historical monument. It is located on a hill spur, on the Domosă Valley in the village of Copalnic, on the “good” road, asphalted, which climbs towards Preluca Nouă, Veche, or Întrerâuri, and offers superb panoramas of the Lăpuș Gorge.
The church is built of round untreated wood, plastered with clay, and painted in blue, “mieriu,” following the model of traditional houses in the Preluci area, in the Chioar Country. Nearby is the Lăpuș Gorge, with the viewpoint Piatra Ciutei and Custura Cetățelei, where there are traces of a fortress. Access: From Baia Mare on DN18B to Copalnic and then DJ18B4, climbing through Preluca Nouă to the village of Aspra.
Belvedere point on the Lăpuș Gorge, with access from Preluca Verde, Paltinului Hill. In the area, you can also visit the Pişetoarea Waterfall and the Stone House Cave. In the picture, Adrian Man, creator of the Maramureș Portal, June 1, 2023.
With a drop of 50-60 meters, in three steps, from the cliffs of Stag’s Stone, the Piss (Pişătoarea) waterfall is the largest waterfall in the Lăpuș Gorge, near the village of Preluca Veche. The waterfall is perfectly visible after heavy rains or during snowmelt. The Lăpuș River forms a gorge area, with canyon sections (Vima Mică – Sălnița, Buteasa Râu – La Împreunături), with rocky cliffs (Custura Cetățuii, Custura Vimei), with waterfalls (La Pișătoare), caves, as well as a wild fauna and flora specific to the cliffs.
With a length of approximately 15 meters, formed in limestone, with concretions, slightly ascending. It is located on the Pietre Cerbului trail, marked with a green arrow, starting from Preluca Veche, Dealul Paltinului. In the area, you can also visit Stag’ s Stone, a beautifull viewpoint, and Piss Waterfall. Attention, the location on Google Maps is not correct.
Chioar Fortress (or Stone Fortress) is documented in 1319 as the residence of the noble family in the area, the Gutkelec family, and in 1367, the fortress came into the possession of Drag and Balc, voivodes of Maramureș, the grandchildren of Dragoș Vodă. Over the centuries, the fortress became an important military and economic complex, covering an area of one hectare by 1400, and by 1650 it included 120 villages. It is not known if Michael the Brave set foot in this fortress, but his soldiers were here, and at that time, the fortress captain surrendered it to Michael the Brave. The fortress was destroyed and dismantled in 1718 by the Austrian authorities, to prevent it from being used by the army of Francis II Rákóczi, Prince Regent of Hungary and Prince of Transylvania. Rákóczi used his wealth to help the cause of abolishing the personal union with the House of Habsburg. Between 1703 and 1711, he led the Curuti Rebellion, the first significant war of the Kingdom of Hungary against the Habsburg regime. Grigore Pintea, known as Pintea the Brave, was a captain in Rákóczi’s Curuti army.
Located near Remecioara (2.4 km), a village belonging to Remetea Chioarului, in Lăpuș Gorge, with almost still and deep water, a good place for picnics or camping, swimming, and relaxation.
And 3 km upstream from “Black Pond” is “La Împreunături,” the place where the Cavnic River flows into the Lăpuș River, a hike that crosses the cliffs and a series of beaches, like oases of sand scattered among the gorge walls, an area locals call “Piatra Înșirată.”
The last village on the Lăpuș Gorge, in Țara Chioarului, in the picture, the village of Remecioara at Dumitru’s Mill, the starting point on the trail to Black Pond on Lăpuș Gorge (3 km) or the place where the Cavnic River flows into the Lăpuș River (6 km).
Also here is the terminus for rafting on the last stretch of the Lăpuș Gorge, starting from Buteasa. Nearby, you can also visit Burii Waterfall.
The wooden church “Saints Archangels Michael and Gabriel” in Remetea Chioarului, a historical monument, was erected in the 18th century. Also in the compound is the new church “Ascension of the Lord,” founded in 1999.
Near these places of worship, in the center of Remetea Chioarului, the Heroes Monument from the First and Second World Wars was inaugurated in 2016.
A magnificent waterfall, a tourist attraction in Țara Chioarului, hidden yet easily accessible, located just at the entrance to the village of Hovrila, a landmark – the village cemetery, on the right side about 2-300 m. Location: 30 km from Baia Mare + 2 km from Buciumi, on DN1C.
From the first documentary attestations, Şomcuta Mare belonged to the rule of Chioar Fortress and is mentioned for the first time in 1319. In 1599, Şomcuta Mare, along with Chioar, came under the rule of Michael the Brave. In 1713, Chioar Fortress was destroyed, a moment after which Şomcuta Mare gained an increasingly important role in Chioar, shortly becoming the most important locality in the district. The economic development is evidenced by the fact that, in the early 19th century, the locality had a railway station, three banks, post office, and telegraph, communal hospital, a library, as well as a fire department. Şomcuta Mare was declared a city in 2004 and currently includes the localities of Buciumi, Ciolt, Hovrila, and Vălenii Șomcutei, and the villages of Buteasa, Codru Butesii, and Finteușu Mare. Attractions: Curia of the Nyilvan family (19th century); “Chiorean Bank” (19th century); Church of the “Holy Apostles” (1892); Teleki Mansion (19th century); Roman Catholic Church “Saint Vasile” (1895); Former headquarters of the Chioar District (1861); Casino (19th century); Wooden churches in Buteasa, Codru Butesii, and Vălenii Șomcutei.
Historical building, dated 1861, located on E58, at the exit from Șomcuța Mare, is by far the most imposing building in the city, with an area of 3,600 square meters. Built in 1861, it was the headquarters of the Chioar District, and during the communist regime, it was the headquarters of the former Securitate. After the Revolution, for a short period, it operated as a gendarmerie military unit. In 2008, the local authority tried to transform the space into a town hall, but the financial crisis that followed put an end to the plans, although the work had already started.
Built of solid oak for the enclosing and partition walls, with specific Romanian joints (swallowtail), the initial plan was identical to that of the church in Săcălășeni. Over time, the church underwent transformations, was affected by the vicissitudes of nature, but after the completion of the stone church (1948), it fell into desertion.
The curiosity of the place at Prislop Monastery, in Boiu Mare, is represented by a cube of black marble, probably the summer altar table, located in front of the church. On the four side faces are inlaid zodiac signs, symbols of the tribes of Israel, the names of the 12 apostles, the 12 prophets, and the 12 tribes of Israel, written in Hebrew characters. The Greek Catholic monastery church was built in 1995 by Father Irineu Bârle, dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. Above the entrance is an impressive mosaic with the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus, and below, on either side of the entrance, stained glass windows with martyred bishops of the Greek Catholic Church are placed. Location: Boiu Mare, 4.5 km from Mesteacăn Pass – Website
A natural reserve of speleological type, Boiu Mare Cave is a nationally protected area located in the southern extremity of Maramureș County, on the border with Sălaj County, on an area of 0.5 hectares. The protected area represents a cavity or cave in the left bank of the Lăpuș Valley at the base of a sinkhole, with an entrance formed by an iron gate attached to a stone wall (masked outside by an earth mound), a descending gallery, a chimney, and a main gallery, now filled in.
Mesteacăn Pass (or Prișnel) is a pass located at an altitude of 456 m that connects Baia Mare Depression and Someș Plateau, more precisely between Țara Chioarului, to the north, and the Someș Valley, to the south, over the Mesteacăn Hill of the Prișnel Ridge (also called Prișnel Hill). Mesteacăn Pass is crossed by the national road DN1C or European E58. Attractions: Cheile Lăpușului, Wooden Church in Valea Chioarului, Wooden Church in Vărai, Wooden Church in Ileanda, Someș River, Orc’s (Zmeu) Garden.